City of Cool

March 29, 2019

 

 

 

 

 

 

CITY OF COOL

懾人景致環抱,到處也可品嚐到美酒佳餚,令人一「遊」鍾情

 

WORDS ANJI CONNELL PHOTOGRAPHY ALL COURTESY IMAGES

MARCH 2019 | HOME JOURNAL | 127 HONG KONG

LIVING|ITINERARY

COLOURFUL COLLECTIBLES

 

 

Surrounded by Table Mountain’s magnificent landscape, Cape Town is the kind of place you visit once and immediately fall in love with. 

 

| 開普敦被桌山的

 

 

 

Contemporary African design is on full display at the Southern Guild.

精彩珍藏

當代非洲設計於Southern Guild綻放魅力。

 

 

 

 

 

 

Isolated for decades under apartheid, South Africa has seen dramatic change in recent times. Ten years ago, one wouldn’t be wise to wander down the wrong alleyways in Cape Town. But now, the city centre is packed with cool bars, restaurants and hip boutiques, making it a cultural melting pot. With local and international creatives and chefs revitalising run-down buildings and creating new neighbourhoods, Cape Town’s energy and entrepreneurial spirit is infectious.

 

VISIT

 

For a window into Cape Town’s history, visit the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA) and the Norval Foundation. Located in the now-fashionable Silo District at the V&A Waterfront, the former is minutes away from The Watershed, which purveys unique ceramics, textiles, furniture and fashion. While you’re there, sample Harbour House’s sushi, oysters, and bubbles while watching the boats ferry tourists to Robben Island, Nelson Mandela’s prison home for 18 years. There are many neighbourhoods that have seen transformation in recent years, and among them is Woodstock, with hipster cafes and galleries occupying old factories coveredwith vivid murals. Bordering Woodstock is Observatory, an artsy district where you’ll find laid-back restaurants, bars and live music. To the northwest, De Waterkant is a chic enclave with the Cape Quarter Lifestyle Village that’s surrounded by streets lined with craft coffee bars and stylish boutiques, plus gay cocktail bars that give the area an LGBT-friendly vibe. And Bo Kaap(“above the Cape”) is an Instagram-ready area filled with brightly painted houses and quaintcobbled streets. Formerly called the Malay Quarter, it’s one of the oldest areas of Cape Town.

 

 

 

 

因種族隔離而封閉多年的開普敦近年出現巨變。十年 前,人們不會在市內橫街窄巷流連;今天到處可見型 格酒吧、餐廳和時尚商店,文化薈萃。當地和國際創 意人才,以及大廚們不遺餘力地活化舊建築及創建新 社區,為開普敦注入活力和創新精神。

觀光

要了解開普敦歷史,絕不能錯過非洲當代美術 館(MOCAA)和Norval Foundation。前者坐落Silo的V&A漁人碼頭,距離專售陶瓷、織品、傢具和時裝 的The Watershed僅數分鐘路程。記得一嚐Harbour House的壽司、生蠔和美酒,並觀賞前往羅本島的船 隻來回往返,前南非總統曼德拉曾居此達18年。近郊 的Woodstock亦經歷極大變化,多間咖啡廳和藝廊進 駐舊工廠;充滿藝術感的Observatory林立餐廳、酒 吧和現場音樂表演。De Waterkant是Cape Quarter Lifestyle Village的所在地,高級商店林立,包括手工 咖啡酒吧、時裝店和大受同志文化歡迎的酒吧。Bo Kaap前名為Malay Quarter,是開普敦舊城區之一, 到處可見彩色房屋和古色街道,屬打卡熱點。

 

 

 

 

 

美食

擁有大量農地和酒區的開普 敦份外重視飲食文化,餐廳亦十分 著重食物質素和室內裝潢。位於Roundhouse的Salsify是Luke Dale-

Roberts開設的新食府,以塗鴉裝飾和 時令美食見稱;Tjing Tjing Momiji擁有 美不勝收的室內設計,提供悠閒和高級餐 飲選擇;由Ash Heeger和Mandy van der Berg兩姐妹開設的高級餐廳Riverine Rabbit定必令你讚不絕口;Upper Bloem提供南非菜 式,地點一流,由Liam Mooney打造裝潢;供應意 大利美食和附設庭院酒吧的Villa 47亦值得一嚐,以及供應

素食快餐的Lekker Vegan。

飲品

開普敦人極愛咖啡,你可在Haas Collective品嚐到獲選為「世界最強 咖啡」的Black Insomnia,這裡也是創意人士展示個人傑作的地方;深受 喜愛的Truth Coffee坐落一間皮革及鋼鐵舊倉庫之內,單是室內設計已值得 前往一遊;Pauline’s是當地首間站立式咖啡站,由Loading Bay的Jon-Paul Bolus創立;不得不提散發著巴黎格調的法國小店Swan Café。House of Machines、Harringtons Cocktail Lounge、Cause Effect和位於Honest Chocolate的Gin Bar提供無盡驚喜飲品選擇。以地下酒吧為靈感的爵士酒 吧The Art of Duplicity玩味十足,要說出密碼才能進內。

 

 

EAT

 

Backed by exceptional farms and regional wine estates, Cape Town takes its restaurant culture very
seriously. Salsify at the Roundhouse is a hot new restaurant fromchef Luke Dale-Roberts, featuring graffiti and exquisite food with intense seasonal flavours. Tjing Tjing Momiji has beautiful interiors, with options for casual and fine dining. Curated bysisters Ash Heeger and Mandy van der Berg, Riverine Rabbitis a fine-dining experience without pretension. Upper Bloemshowcases South African cuisine in a stunning location designed by Liam Mooney. Other great options are Villa 47 for Italian cuisine, and Lekker Vegan for vegan fast food.

 

DRINK

 

Capetonians have a serious coffee-drinking culture. You can sample Black Insomnia, voted the world’s strongest coffee,at Haas Collective. Found in an old warehouse outfitted withleather and steel, the popular Truth Coffee is worth a visit forthe interiors alone. And Pauline’s is the country’s first stand-upcoffee bar, conceived by Jon-Paul Bolus of Loading Bay. Finally, there’s Swan Café, a sexy French crêperie. For drinks, you’re spoilt for choice, with The House of Machines, Harringtons Cocktail Lounge, The Gin Bar at Honest Chocolate, and Cause Effect allserving exceptional options. A fun new speakeasy-inspired jazzbar, The Art of Duplicity requires a password for entry.

SAVOURY SPECIALS

Keep your eyes peeled at Salsify at The Roundhouse (top left) and Swan Cafe (below), where interiors lend to

the overall dining experience.

精選品味

位於The Roundhouse的Salsify(左上) 讓你眼界大開,下圖的Swan Cafe擁有 全面滿足視覺與味覺的餐飲體驗。

 

SLEEP

 

Ellerman House is Cape Town’s most exclusive luxury boutique hotel. A new five-starhotel is the Silo Hotel, home to the Willaston bar and a rooftop that is the place to be at sunset. For the young at heart, Radisson Red is a brand for the millennial mindset and is inspired by art, music and fashion.

 

 

SHOP

At Sans, the decor is beautiful and the products ethically sourced. Sobeit Studio is atreasure trove of decorative items, jewellery and skulls. Pezula Interiors is a must for everydesign enthusiast, as is designer Robert Sherwood’s Bree Street gallery and studio – a small but stunning gem stocked with exquisite art and design pieces. Africa Nova is a greatplace to find artefacts, ceramics and clothing, while Southern Guild is the best gallery forcollectible and contemporary African design products. For an eclectic celebration of Cape Town’s history, check out Michael Chandler House. Jewellery is particularly exquisite in CapeTown, and you’ll find interesting pieces at Afrigarde, Iloni, Pichulik and Philippa Green. //

住宿

Ellerman House是開普敦最豪華的精品酒店;最新5星級酒店Silo Hotel設Willaston酒吧和可觀賞日落美景 的天台;年齡或心境年輕的一族,可選擇入住專為千禧 世代而設計的Radisson Red,滿載一室跟藝術、音樂和 時裝有關的精彩靈感。

購物

來到Sans,不但可欣賞到美麗裝潢,店內更供應多 款種精心挑選的產品;Sobeit Studio是找尋家居用品、珠 寶首飾和骷髏骨設計的寶藏;設計狂熱者不能錯過Pezula Interiors,以及設計師Robert Sherwood的Bree Street展廊及工作室:小小空間內珍藏著大量非凡的藝 術和設計作品;前往Africa Nova,即可找到 各式各樣的特色人工製品、陶瓷和衣飾,而

Southern Guild則是選購當代非洲設計收 藏品的好地方;想尋找跟開普敦歷史有關 的設計?快快把Michael Chandler House加入行程去吧!此外,開普敦亦以出產 優質珠寶聞名,想挑選閃爍瑰麗的首飾設 計,絕不能錯過Afrigarde、Iloni、Pichulik和Philippa Green。//

 

 

TUCK INTO INDULGENCE

Enjoy luxury stays at five- star newcomer Silo Hotel (topmost) or the exclusive Ellerman House (above left).

盡情享受

五星酒店新貴Silo Hotel(頂圖) 或高級之選Ellerman House(左上)也是理想的住宿地點。

132 | HO≤E JOURNAL | MARCH 2019

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